A very calm nightand clear sky. The tent was covered in condensation inside and out. My planned route for the day is relatively short so I delayed my start to let the sun rise enough to dry the tent out. It almost worked. I was on my way just after 9am and was rather concerned about the wind direction, which seemed to have swung round considerably. After a few miles I reached the main Stornoway to Tarbert road and my fears were correct. Two days earlier I’d struggled along this road into a head wind. Now the wind had turned almost 180deg and the cruel result was having to struggle back towards Tarbert into the wind again.

the A858 by my camp

As I was now getting used to the headwinds I began to count my blessings. There was intermittent sunshine and I wasn’t planning to go too far so being slowed by the wind wasn’t a problem. Somewhere around Laxay the two couples on motorbikes slowed down and passed me as they headed to Tarbert. It was nice to get friendly waves from all of them. Riding through Balallan I noticed the small Post Office and general store that has been closed all the previous times I’ve passed was open. Only the door was open, but the windows were covered and locked. I went in to see if they had any chocolate or similar but they had no food of any kind.

Balallan Post Office, open at last

 It looked as though they only had newspapers. My objective for the day was the summit of the Clisham Pass where I’d camped last year. There was a suitable pitch, though exposed, water and a good mobile signal. The wind strengthened as I got to the base of the climb but the pleasant thing was that the climb loops round so the first part was with the wind behind me. It didn’t last long as there is a sharp right hand bend half way up taking me back in to the wind. After the first summit is a descent then another more gradual climb to the summit loch and road summit. By now the wind was even stronger and I put plenty of boulders on top of the pegs after I’d pitched the tent. The wind was strong but steady and the tent wasn’t having any problems. I was cooking my evening meal when I listened to the shipping forecast at 17:50. The news was bad. Heavy rain and much stronger winds were on their way. The decision was made for me. I had to leave.

back on Harris

My tea was cooked so that had to be rushed down then the camp packed away in the ferocious wind. I managed to get packed up and back on the road by 19:00, not a good time of day to be setting of for an unknown campsite. At least the rain hadn’t started. There were a few miles of descent back to sea level so I tried an experiment in a couple of places to see if I could free wheel down the hill. I couldn’t. I just went slower and slower as the wind pushed me back. I was amazed to see that the small shop by the garage at Ardhasaig was still open. I stopped to buy some biscuits then continued along the deserted road to Tarbert. The new school and sports centre looked impressive as I passed. Last year it was just a construction site. I continued along the A859 on to South Harris and followed it for a few miles until I saw the left turn signposted ‘The Golden Road.’ Also on the sign was ‘Harris Tweed and Knitwear’ a centre I was hoping to visit. The weather was gloomy and overcast when I set off down the road. I was hoping to find a pitch somewhere but few streams crossed the road and the main problem was lack of suitable water.

I kept an eye on the bike milometer and when I’d done 3 miles there was still no sign of the Harris Tweed centre. A sign said ‘Minch View Campsite’ so I went through the gate to check. It was just a small parking area for mobile homes but I didn’t check the price for a tent as there was no mobile phone signal. There was a tap so I put some water in my water bag, strapped it to the rear pannier frame and set off along the road. Over a rise I came to a small building and radio mast which looked like a relay station as there were 2 microwave dishes mounted on it. I checked my phone and got a full signal. I wheeled my bike through a gate to the right and pitched the tent in a field. I rode down to some buildings to find the Harris Tweed place. Most seemed deserted but one had lights on and an outbuilding with a loom and some jackets hanging on a rack. The door was open but nobody was about. I knocked on the house door but nobody replied. I returned to the tent as the rain started and the wind continued.

heading for the Golden Road