The overnight rain had stopped but I still had a soggy tent to pack away. I was on the road just after 8am heading west along the A859 to Garynahine. The road was straight with long up and down undulations. The wind was still strong but coming from the north didn’t cause me any problems. I turned left on to the B8011 heading towards Uig, 20 miles away. It’s not a through road so I’ll have to come back the same way.

loading the bike before setting off

My main objective is the end of the road at Brenish which I didn’t reach on my trip here last year. For several miles there is absolutely nothing on the road. It is totally bleak with little to see except the distant hills. The turn off to Great Bernera came after 3 miles but I pressed on. The road has been considerably improved or more accurately rebuilt as much of the old road can be seen running nearby. Apart from the occasional vehicle there was no sign of life anywhere. A sign by the road said ‘wood carving studio’ ahead but when I got there it was closed. At Miavaig I came to the fascinating stretch of road that climbs up through a narrow gorge. The sun was out and the wind didn’t cause me any problems, though it was still cold.

Music by the road

The last time I was here it was vicious head winds and pouring rain. At the far end the branch to Uig suddenly appears and shortly after the ‘Uig Community Store’ on the left. I stopped to eat a piece of toast before pressing on to the end of the road. After a couple of miles I reached the branch road to the picnic area where I camped the last time. I cycled past for another mile then as I descended to a bridge noticed a lovely view of blue sea and sky to my right. I stopped to take a picture then noticed a couple of wooden carving of the Lewis Chessmen across the road.

Wooden Lewis Chessman

Abhainn Dearg (Red River Distillery)

They were by a small car park and some wooden barrels painted with the description distillery. Some buildings were further along a stony side track so I rode down to take a look. A man was there and asked if I’d like to look round the distillery. The whole of the operation takes place in one building which from the outside looks like a large warehouse. It turns out the complex used to be a fish farm where small fish were reared in tanks which still lie around, then moved to netted areas out to sea to finish off the process. The distillery has only been in operation for 4 years and produces Abhainn Dearg single malt whisky.

Abhainn Dearg whisky

A couple of bottles were there on a barrel and a glass. I was asked if I’d like a wee dram (it was free, as was the tour) but I declined as I had a bike to ride. The owner was there mostly on the phone but the man who I spoke to was a local who lives in Brenish. I left and continued up a steep climb then along a road along the cliff tops for about 5 miles.

Abhainn Dearg bonded warehouse

End of the road at Brenish

The wind was behind me and I had wonderful views out to sea under a blue sky. I could see islands on the distant horizon but wasn’t sure if they were St Kilda or Flannan Isles. Approaching the end of the road were quite a few houses and the remains of several concrete buildings which were part of a radio station during the war. The road had grass growing along the middle as I reached the end which was an old slipway. I turned round and headed back.

New Zealand 11,288 miles as the crow flies
or 7,921 miles if you dig a hole there

Uig Community Store

The headwind wasn’t as bad as I’d expected and when I got back to the distillery I stopped to top up my water bottle. I asked the man if they sold their whisky by the measure as opposed to a full bottle. They didn’t but he gave me a 50ml miniature to drink later. I returned to the Uig Community Store to buy some chocolate to eat for the return ride. Outside it began to rain heavily but it didn’t last long. Earlier I’d seen 2 motorbikes with couples on. The bikes were parked in the car park and one rider came up to ask where I was from. He recognised my accent and his was similar. He was from Preston, less than 10 miles from where I live.

East of Uig Community Store

I set off back but stopped briefly in Miavaig to photograph the white church which looked very impressive in the sunshine. I had quite a bit of sunshine as I rode back to Garynahine and I saw one lone walker and rucksack trying to thumb a lift. I turned right back to last night’s camp.

Church in Miavaig

It was very nice having the wind behind me for a change. Knowing there was a good phone and radio signal I decided to camp there again.

a miniature of Abhainn Dearg whisky for tea