I needed to be away early to catch a ferry. The cold northerly wind wasn’t good for my ride but it did mean by tent was dry making it easy to pack away. I was on my way just before 6am and had just over 10 miles to reach the Berneray ferry. The unknown was how the wind would affect the journey. It turned out not to be as bad as I’d feared. The road was deserted as I left Lochmaddy and the first few miles were due west along the north side of North Uist.

the Ferryman at Berneray

The right turn to Berneray and the ferry is clearly marked but doesn’t give a distance, which would be very useful. The lack of distances on signs is a common problem in the Outer Hebrides. I reached the ferry jetty in good time and there were already a few vehicles waiting. As with Uig there were no cyclist. It is interesting to note that during the previous week the timetable had to be amended due to the effects of the extra large full moon causing lower than normal tides. We set off on time at 07:15 and headed across to Leverburgh. It was partly overcast and still quite windy when we arrived. I was glad to see the Butty Bus was there and was open. I went inside and ordered a bacon butty for £2.50. I chatted with the proprietor about the best way to Tarbert; west or east of Harris.

Butty-bus at Leverburgh

I was undecided but after I’d set off went for the west side. Both ways would have head winds but the west side has better views of the bays. I saw the last remaining stone standing of the Clach Steineagaidh stone circle. It stood alone in a field so I walked over for a look. Further along the road was the campsite at Seilebost but I couldn’t see any offices to book in etc. I reached Tarbert but the main road doesn’t go through the town so I didn’t check it out.

Clach Steineagaidh, Scarasta, Harris

Further along the coast I came to the filling station and small shop at Ardhasaig. The last time I was here last year there was a lady serving behind the counter who was originally from Homefirth. I called in to buy a pie for now, and biscuits for later. I asked about the lady and was told she’d left and now worked somewhere else. I ate the pie on the bench across the road then set off up the steep climb over Clisham pass. Part way up is a quarry and outbuildings where I sheltered from the rain the last time I was here. Then I was welcomed inside and given coffee. As I passed today it’s locked up and empty.

Ardhasaig Filling Station and Grocers

As I got higher the headwinds became quite a problem and I enjoyed the brief time it took to freewheel down the other side of the pass. Once down I had to continue my battle into the wind. My plan was to ride to Stornoway and camp there then get the morning ferry to Ullapool then come straight back. The wind meant I could only manage little more than walking pace at times and decided to cut Stornoway out of my plan. My main objective was the western side of Lewis so decided to turn off at Leurbost. The roads are long mostly straight and unbelievably punishing in a headwind. There is no shelter of any kind and even though there are houses from time to time there is nobody about. Ballalan Post Office looks as though it was also a general store was shuttered up and locked.

Ballalan Post Office

I saw some other cyclists up ahead and as they had panniers were also riding slowly. I passed them and continued to the building of Kinloch Historical Society. Round the back are public toilets and I used the tap in the basin to top up my water bottle. Two of the cyclists arrived as I was leaving. I set off again but as I was on gravel my turn on to the road didn’t work and I finished slipping off and onto my left side. I refitted the 2 panniers that came off and headed for Leurbost where I turned left. The wind was now on my side and it was much easier cycling. I reached a small picnic area where I had a surprisingly good signal on my phone. It may be due to the large radio masts nearby. I camped here for the night and just as I got the tent up it began to rain.