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Cork, Skibbereen, Ring of Kerry, Dingle coast, Tralee, Republic of Ireland.
(6 day bike-pack)
Thu 12 May - Wed 18 May 2016

Mon 16 May 2016

Thu 12 May 2016
Fri 13 May 2016
Sat 14 May 2016
Sun 15 May 2016
Mon 16 May 2016
Tue 17 May 2016
Wed 18 May 2016
It was a different morning with total cloud cover and thankfully no midges. Yesterday I’d got ahead of myself so today is a relatively short ride so there was no point in being away early. I took my time and didn’t pack up camp till after 9am. I descended in to Ventry and the road around the bay. There were still plenty posh houses but no obvious village centre. The road continued to Slea Head where it followed an impressive line along the steep hillside and far above the sea below. The fort Dunbeg was signposted and also ‘genuine famine cottages’.
Near Dunbeg fort.

Onlooker

Looking across the sound to Blasket Islands


School children on Blasket Islands in the 1930s. It was evacuated in 1953

Across Blasket Sound

In the Blasket Centre
There was an admission charge generally of 3Euros. Further along the road beehive huts were advertised at 3Euros. I reached the point and turned north. There was then a very impressive view of Great Blasket Island across Blasket Sound. Some parking areas were by the road and one had an information board and many tourists enjoying the views. The board made no mention of the Armada shipwreck the Santa Maria De La Rosa which is somewhere in the sound.
Blasket Centre
Down a lane was the Blasket Centre. I made the diversion to have a look. It was an interesting building with a large coloured glass window inside. I didn’t go further than the entrance hall as there was a charge to go in. I asked the man behind the counter about the Armada shipwreck, which he knew about, but said there was nothing in the centre about it. There were still a few tourist coaches trundling along the lanes as I rode by Clogher Head and great views ahead. Eventually the road climbed then junction followed by a long straight descent back into Dingle.
Blasket Centre

Tom Crean Brewery, Dingle
It had gone midday so I stopped for something to eat. My next objective was the Connor Pass on the R560 to the NE. As I was leaving the town I came to the Tom Crean Brewery so stopped to have a look inside. There was a large themed reception area and some nice displays in the next room showing some of the Antarctic expeditions Tom Crean had been on.


Tom Crean (1877 - 1938)
Tom Crean was on:

Discovery Expedition, 1901–1904 with Scott and Shackleton.

Terra Nova Expedition, 1910–13 When Capt Scott failed to return from reaching the South Pole. Crean was one of the 11-man search party that found the remains of the polar party.

Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition (Endurance Expedition), 1914–17 when he sailed with Ernest Shackleton. The Endurance was crushed in the ice. They dragged their lifeboat the 'James Caird' across the ice and sailed to Elephant Island. Then a smaller party including Crean sailed a further 800 nautical miles to South Georgia. Then the three fittest men, Shackleton, Crean, and Worsley trekked across the island to the whaling station to organise a rescue for the 22 men waiting on Elephant Island. After several attempts they succeeded and all men were saved.
I set off again to the summit of the pass. The road was good and the gradient steady. As I left the last housed the gradient steepened a bit and seemed to keep to the same gradient. I was riding in gear no 2 and finding it straightforward. With 3.2km to go a sign for cyclist gave the distance and gradient of 7.1%. My plan was to camp on the summit but finding water would probably be a problem. I made a mental note of some bankings on the left where surface water was running off the hillside.
Connor Pass
At the top it was 315m altitude at the car park where people were enjoying the views and ice cream from the van. I wheeled my bike up a track, left it on the grass and headed up the hillside to find running water. There wasn’t any. I put the tent up and my panniers inside then set off on my bike back down the road. At the first area of running water I used a pan to collect it and fill 2 plastic bottles before packing them in my rear pannier and cycling easily back up. It’s amazing what a difference there was with little load. I retired to my tent which had superb views of both sides of the pass and the sea at both sides of the Dingle peninsula. There was also a good ‘H’ data reception on my phone.


Connor Pass summit view