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Cork, Skibbereen, Ring of Kerry, Dingle coast, Tralee, Republic of Ireland.
(6 day bike-pack)
Thu 12 May - Wed 18 May 2016

Fri 13 May 2016

Thu 12 May 2016
Fri 13 May 2016
Sat 14 May 2016
Sun 15 May 2016
Mon 16 May 2016
Tue 17 May 2016
Wed 18 May 2016
The temperature cooled overnight and there was a lot of condensation both in the tent and outside. All the grass was sodden with dew so I had to be careful packing up as I didn’t want to get my socks wet as I walked round. The sky was clear but the sun hadn’t risen enough to dry the tent. I was away by 07:10am and continued my way along the N71 to the west but its route for the first few miles was very windy. I was surprised how easy the riding was as the few gradients were slight. The main problem was the volume of traffic but I put this down to the rush hour.

Michael Mc Lean

Michael Mc Lean memorial
Yesterday I’d seen some wayside cross memorials by the road. A few miles after setting off I saw another and stopped to see if it was a memorial to the victim of a road crash. It wasn’t. A cross in a stone recess had the following inscription below:
Lieut. Michael Mc Lean of Lowertown Schull 3rd West Cork Brigade I.R.A. was tortured and murdered by British Crown Forces on the 8th Dec 1920 aged 23 years.
Further research revealed the following:
I.R.A. Lieutenant Michael McClean of Lowertown Schull was captured and killed by soldiers of the Essex Regiment on the 8th of December 1920. McClean was involved in an ambush at Gaggin County Cork which went wrong when one of the lorries of British Soldiers they were attempting to ambush escaped the ambush and doubled back capturing McClean.
After several more miles I came to a Model ‘T’ Ford car monument by the road. I’d just cycled past it and decided to return to find out what it was. I’m glad I did because a plaque said this was Dearborn and home to the original Ford family who emigrated to America. One of their descendants was Henry Ford, the designer of the Model T Ford car. The first car that was affordable to the general public. Henry returned to visit in 1912 and in following years more of his family and descendants returned to visit.
Model ‘T’ Ford
I continued to make good time and reached Clonakilty where I stopped for something to eat and a drink of water. I had a good mobile data signal but as I was outside the UK I was charged £1.99/day for 200Mg of data.


Artist by the road
I thought it was worth paying to be able to keep up to date with email, email & social media. I’d planned to have my lunch in Skibbereen but when I got there couldn’t see an obvious town centre or somewhere to sit down. I continued to a bridge to the east where I stopped for something to eat (that I’d brought with me)


Bridge at Skibbereen
I continued along the N71 but after a short ride stopped to check out a sign that said the adjacent cemetery was also a mass grave for some 1845 - 1850 victims of the Great Famine. Within the walls of the cemetery was the usual collection of crosses, stones and ruined, roofless church.


Abbeystrowry Cemetery

Close by the gate was large area of mown grass with a couple of flat stones bearing a cross and a small stone reading:
“In Memory of the Victims of the Famine 1845 - 48 who's coffinless Bodies were Buried in this Plot."
It was the mass grave of around 9,000 people who starved to death when the potato harvest consistently failed, although there were many other political reasons why it happened.

Bridget O'Donnell and her two children 1849
 
I continued west along the N71. It varied from wide and fast with occasional narrow sections. At Ballyedehop I turned north but on the same N71 road. It was much narrower and thankfully much less traffic. The road started to climb and I was on the first big pass of my ride. I continued up for several kilometres, over the top then a long descent to Bantry where the sun was shining.


In Bantry
The town centre had a statue to St Brendan the Navigator but little else that I could see. I stopped to buy water and 2 bananas. I ate the bananas and continued by the various bays. I’d done over 60miles and wanted to camp but couldn’t find anywhere due to houses being everywhere.


Saint Brendan the Navigator, Bantry
At Ballylickey was a grassed area between the new N71 and the original old road. It was maintained and mown with sets of benches. I pitched my tent behind a bush where I couldn’t be seen from the main road but could be seen by local houses. I took the chance. Shortly after getting the tent up torrential rain started.


Camp near Ballylickey