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Although I did a short back-pack trip in Scotland last month this is my first trip for a while setting off from home. My planned start is from Cat Bells in Cumbria so to get there I need to catch 3 buses and one train. The first leg was the 05:40am bus to Preston. Then a dark walk across Preston to the Railway Station where I caught the 06:40am Glasgow train as far as Penrith. It was one of the speedy Voyager trains, this train being the John Cabot. I spent most of the journey reading my paper but occasionally looked up to the sky and approaching sunrise while passing through Lancaster and the hills of the Howgills as the train tilted into the snaking bends.

Early morning walk across Preston

John Cabot Super Voyager train

I had some time to kill at Penrith before the bus left just after 8am. I spent it reading and after reached Keswick had more time on my hands before the next bus at 9:20. As I got off I noticed the sign saying no hot or smelly food to be consumed on the bus. I found it quite amusing and mentioned it to the driver. He had to take it more seriously but said the consequences of enforcing it would be too problematical so he didn't bother. He said that carrying smelly food on board is allowed as long as it isn't eaten. I went to browse the books in Sainsbury’s then walked to Needle Sports shop to do some browsing. Back at the bus station I caught the 9:20 bus which turned out to be the same bus I came in from Penrith. The bus was almost full when we left. I looked across the central isle and thought I recognised someone. As soon as he spoke to his friend who was sitting in front of me I knew it was Paul Holt who was one of the managers at United Utilities when I worked there. We chatted briefly but didn't get long as my bus stop soon approached. The bus approached Cat Bells and just before a steep and sharp left hand bend is a cattle grid and the bus stop. I got off and surprisingly a woman was waiting to get on. It was overcast when I set off along the road SW to Skelgill.

No smelly food

There were nice views over the wall to right of Newlands Valley. Inevitably my mind went back many years to 1969 when it was the location of my college land surveying field trip. We spent a week surveying the valley during the day and drinking far too much in the pubs of Keswick during the evenings. At the property of Skelgill I took a left turn through a gate and on to a green track which is a delightful level walk along the west side of Cat Bells. When I reached the old mine workings below Hause Gap the weather took a turn for the worst. The clouds became darker and the rain started along with a very strong wind. I stopped behind a wall to put on my waterproof leggings and fit my home made rain cover for my rucksack. It's the first time I've used it so was interested on how good it was. Within no time the windy rain had increased in ferocity. I couldn't see much as I passed above Little Town were I joined the main track up by Newlands Beck.

Water water everywhere

I pressed on south passing the climbing hut on the way. There were no cars or signs of anyone being there. I was heading for a high valley below Dalehead Crags and after a while I could see it up ahead through the driving rain. Unfortunately the old miner’s path that leads to it is on the other side of the river. The last time I came it was just a case of hopping over a few boulders but now the river was considerably swollen. The only chance of getting across was to wade. I didn't fancy it in the torrential rain so decided to continue following the river until I could find a crossing point. The higher I got the worse the river became. It narrowed and became a raging torrent. I climbed round some impressive waterfalls where the wind was blowing the water back up into the air. At the top of the largest fall I eventually found somewhere to cross. There then followed a tricky traverse across a steep boulder field which was made more difficult because of the wind rain and wet rocks. Approaching the miner’s path I came a cross an ancient shelter which was constructed of large stones and the roof was still intact. Being away from any path it hadn't been found by the vandals. Up ahead I joined the path and followed it up to my planned campsite. The rain had stopped and there was distant sunshine on Skiddaw.

looking down towards Newlands from camp 1

The wind was still as strong. There was a ruined stone building by a stream and nearby a flat grassy spot for my tent. It took a long time to get my Hilleberg Soulo tent up due to the strong wind. It’s the first time I've used it since buying a new pole after the original one was snapped in strong winds in Scotland last month. The rest of the afternoon and evening continued very windy.