It rained all though the night but wasn’t too hard as I packed the
tent away. My main problem was the traffic in the wet and dark.
Fortunately I only had a couple of miles to do before reaching the
turn off just before Ambleside. The minor road runs by the River
Rothay and is used for car parking for those not wanting to pay
extortionate charges in Ambleside. By the footbridge the road is too
narrow for parking and the road continues through open country to
the main A591 near Rydal.
Approaching Rydal Water
Rydal Water in the rain
If I had known what was to come I’d have joined the road and
followed it to Grasmere. Instead I followed the cycle route sign
along a rough narrow track. There was a steep climb then through a
gate on to a path and down towards Rydal Water. Along the water’s
edge were a few spots I could have camped last night but I wasn’t to
know that. The streams running into Rydal were short fords but at
one point the stream was too deep and stepping stones were provided.
This wasn’t convenient for a bike and it was difficult wheeling the
bike through the water while stepping over the stones.
Grasmere in the rain
A simple footbridge would have sorted the problem. I had to push the
bike up a very steep stretch then there was a descent through the
woods to another footbridge, a sharp left turn through a field then
a very steep push up through more woods. At the next bridge was a
sign saying cyclists should get off and push as it was a footpath
only. Another section was a shingle beach along the side of
Grasmere. Once back on a rideable path and a final steep push uphill
I reached the road and descended into Grasmere village. It was still
raining hard so stopped briefly in the centre by a bus shelter where
I enjoyed a few moments in the dry.
Starting the cycle track on Dunmail Raise
Flooded road along Thirlmere
I checked my phone but didn’t have a signal. I continued to the A591
to start the long slog up to the Dunmail Raise summit. I had a tail
wind which helped a bit. At the summit I thankfully reached the
start of the new (ish) cycle path down to Wythburn. Although the
surface tarmac was nice and smooth the weather had washed a lot of
stones across it which I’m sure won’t get cleaned up by anybody. I
joined the minor road along the west side of Thirlmere with some
flooded sections and rode easily to the dam area where the branch
road was closed for some maintenance work. Further on I re-joined
the busy A591 which I had to endure to the outskirts of Keswick
where I took the minor road down into the town centre.
I wheeled my bike through the market area then rode to the Sainsbury
supermarket where I bought some bread and a banana for lunch. My
original plan was to continue on the A591 along the east side of
Bassenthwaite Lake but it was closed for water main works. I had no
choice to head along the west side via the very busy A66 trunk road.
For the first few miles I followed the old road which was nice and
quiet but then had a couple of miles on the trunk road.
A very rainy Keswick
It was very unpleasant with lots of large vehicles but I
survived to re-join the old road and across to the B5291. I turned
east along the north end of Bassenthwaite Lake to reach the Castle
Inn. I had in mind two options for a camp site. One was on the road
summit to the east of Uldale but getting water could be a problem.
The other was to continue to Hesket Newmarket and camp on the grass
behind the car park. I had some long climbs and a very steep one
near Binsey. I reached Uldale and as I was leaving notice an outside
water tap on a house at the end of a terrace. It worked so I knocked
for permission but there was no one at home. I filled my water
containers and continued to the road high point. The adjacent land
was extremely wet but I was ready to set up camp. I pitched the tent
and put some water on for a brew. The weather forecast was very bad
and before the water boiled the wind was so strong it was on the
verge of dangerous. I decided it would be sensible to descend to
Hesket Newmarket so I packed up as quickly as I could and continued
in the gloom. It was 17:30 and dark when I reached Hesket Newmarket
and a wet grassy pitch. The night was surprisingly calm but still
very wet. A pleasant bonus was a very good 4G signal for my
phone.
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Whittle Wanderer
