|
There was drizzle through the night
and total cloud. I could only just see the lights on the far side of
the sound. This is my last day on Iona so a started to pack the camp
away. In the distance I noticed the ferry approaching for the 07:10
pick up. I was able to be packed up and the panniers fitted to my
bike by 07:00. My original plan was to go for the 09:45 ferry but
thought I’d go for this. |
|
|
|
Leaving
Iona on the 09:45 ferry |
|
|
It was only a ride of a few minutes to the
jetty so I set off. As I approached I saw vehicles driving on but as
soon as they were on the ramps were raised and the ferry reversed
out. It was only 07:05 so they’d gone 5mins early. I stopped at the
slipway but there was nothing I could do but ride back to Bishop’s
House and make some toast. I whiled the time away and returned to
the jetty for the 08:45 sailing. It was fairly windy but as I set
off from Fionnphort I had a following wind to help me. There are two
events today, the vernal equinox and start of spring and also a
partial eclipse of the sun. Although the earlier rain had stopped
there was still total cloud cover. The only effects I saw was when
the sky darkened considerable giving the impression that a heavy
rainstorm was about to start. Thankfully it didn’t and after the
eclipse the sky lightened again. |
|
The following wind was with me all
the way to the head of the loch. There I turned left to head for
Salem and also turn into a head wind.
It wasn’t as bad as I was expecting so I continued round the loch
then the steady climb through the trees to the summit Seilisder
pass. Over the top the views opened to reveal Loch NaKeil ahead. The
road continues along the side of the loch and was easy riding due to
the following wind. At the end of the loch I was approaching the
road junction when I noticed the sign pointing along a track to the
Macquarie Mausoleum. I rode my bike along to investigate. After a
while I came to three successive gates to left my bike at the second
to complete the journey on foot. The mausoleum contains the remains
of Lachlan Macquarie and his family. He was born on nearby Ulva and
went on to be a key figure in creating Australia. |
|
|
|
Along
the shore of Loch Na Keal |
|
|
Major General
Lachlan Macquarie (1762
– 1824) was a British Army officer and colonial administrator from
Scotland. He served as the fifth and last autocratic Governor of New
South Wales from 1810 to 1821, and had a leading role in the social,
economic and architectural development of the colony. |
|
|
|
Mausoleum of Lachlan Macquarie & family |
|
|
He is considered by historians to have
had a crucial influence on the transition of New South Wales from a
penal colony to a free settlement and therefore to have played a
major role in the shaping of Australian society in the early
nineteenth century. An inscription on his tomb in Scotland describes
him as "The Father of Australia". |
|
|
Panoramic view of Port Jackson c1821 |
|
|
|
I returned to the road and continued to Salen where I turned right
on to the A849
It’s the first time I’ve been on this stretch of the A849 and it was
nice to be on a full width road. The surface was also excellent and
a delight to ride on. My next objective was the ferry at Fishnish. I
hadn’t checked the times before I left this morning so didn’t know
when the next left. With a couple of miles to go I could see the
ferry approaching from Lochaline on the far side of the Sound of
Mull. |
|
|
|
‘The
Secret Kitchen’ cafe at Fishnish |
|
|
Just after I turned off the main road
and headed along the minor road to the ferry I saw a line of
vehicles driving up. The chances of catching the next sailing looked
slim. I was right. On the final approach to the slipway the ferry
was pulling away. There was ‘The Secret Kitchen’ cafe at the end of
the road. There didn’t seem to be a proper ferry waiting room so I
went in the cafe for a chip butty for £2.50. It turned out to be a
plate of chips with a sliced bun. |
|
|
Sea Eagle Burgers
I've absolutely nothing against Sea Eagles, except I can't get buns
big enough to fit them. |
|
I’d missed the 14:10 ferry so waited for the 15:10. The crossing was
quite windy and only one vehicle on the ferry. I was the only other
passenger. At Lochaline I wheeled my bike up to the car park area to
decide where to camp. By the harbour was a bit of grass that had a
slope on it but seemed the best available. That’s where I spent the
night.
It was this loch were many of the evacuated people from St Kilda
landed in 1930. They made a new life in the area. |
|
|
|
|
|
Men on St Kilda before the evacuation |
|
Highland and Island life in the 19th
century |
|
|
Return to
Whittle Wanderer
