Mon 18 Jul 2011
There was a lot of rain during the night but it had stopped for a while as I packed up the tent. I set off at 07:20am to investigate Vatersay which is just across the causeway I can see from my campsite. The northerly wind was still there and as 'd crossed the causeway and headed south towards Bhatersaig I was blown along so fast I hardly needed to pedal. This was bad news as my route for the next few days is north and I'll have to ride directly into the wind.

a lonesome bus stop on Vatersay

the most southerly house I came to at
the end of the road on Vatersay

Approaching the dunes area was a monument with a list of names on it. To one side was the wreckage of the plane that crashed and caused the monument to be built. The crash was 1944 and I was surprised how well the wreckage had survived. I reached the end of the road at Bhatarsaigh and then turned back along the only road in. The weather was still gloomy, overcast and very windy. It now started to rain again.

In Memory of the men who died and survived when their Catalina Plane crashed on Vatersay on 12 May 1944. 3 of the crew died, and six survived DIED IN CRASH * Flight Sergeant D. Clyne, Captain * Sergeant E. Kilshaw, 2nd Pilot Sergeant P. Lee, Navigator Sergeant G. Calder, Wireless Op-AG Sergeant R. Beavis, Engineer Sergeant R. Anstey, Wireless Op-AG Sergeant R. Basset, Wireless Op-AG * Sergeant R. Whiting, Flight Mechanic Sergeant P. Hines, Rigger-AG *

Memorial to the crew of the crashed Catalina

Catalina wreckage

a Catalina similar to the plane that crashed

on the ferry from Barra to Eriksay

the ferry

Back in Castlebay I passed the now empty ferry terminal and continued along the A888 which I'd was follow to the ferry terminal for Eriksay. The road was quite good but the wind prevented any enjoyment of the cycling. I knew there was a ferry at 11am and that's the one I intended to catch. I wasn't sure how long my Vatersay excursion had taken so I glanced at my watch to see how I was doing. I was surprised to see it was only 08:30 as I passed through Castlebay and wondered if there was any chance I could catch the earlier ferry at 09:20. A very steep climb out of the town was my first obstacle. I continued anticlockwise round the island until I came to the branch road to the ferry. It was well signposted but didn't say how far it was. It had gone 9 o'clock when I glanced at my watch so I put my head down and went as fast as I could. It had just gone 09:20 when the ferry came in to view and it was still there with the boarding door open.

Eriksay

the causeway between Eriksay and South Uist

I wheeled my bike on board and just made it with 2mins to spare. In the passenger room were 2 cyclist who'd also come from Castlebay. They'd stayed in the hostel. They'd come from North Uist the day before and said they'd almost free-wheeled the whole way because of the tail wind. Now we had to endure the vicious headwind to battle our way north. The road climbed steeply as I crossed Eriksay then down to cross the magnificent causeway across to South Uist.

the birthplace of Flora MacDonald

Flora MacDonald
(1722 - 1790)

the vintage Italian bike

The landscape was very bleak and even if it had been sunny I can't see how things could have been improved. There were plenty of houses about but no sign of any industry. I wonder how the population make a living. A sign pointed off the road and down a track. It said Flora Macdonnald's birthplace. I'm glad I decided to investigate as it was an interesting ruined croft with a monument inside. I rejoined the main road and continued north. A cyclist came up behind on a lightweight road bike. We chatted for a while and he mentioned a bike shop up ahead then he sped up and vanished in the distance.

I stopped to look at a visitor centre and hopefully look in the museum. The museum was £2 so I declined and continued on my way. I stopped. I soon came to the cycle shop mentioned and the cyclist was there talking to the owner. I stopped to have a look. He showed my a wonderful old racing bike originally owned by an Italian professional in the 1960s.

Rothan Cycles

North Uist

I crossed the causeway on to Benbecula where there was a sort of supermarket. I stopped to buy some water and finish the last of my sandwiches. From the inside it was like a small supermarket but outside looked like a warehouse as there were no windows. Benbecula was a strange place. Fairly featureless with no trees or mountains. I wasn't sorry to leave it and cross the causeway to Nth Uist. After a while the road splits and I took the right turn with the intention of getting as close to the Berneray Ferry as possible. The road was well surfaced and sections of it were relatively new. I don't remember seeing any settlements or houses the whole way.

 About 6 tough miles later I reached another junction where I stopped to eat some toast before turning left into the full force of the gale. I was getting quite tired and it seemed to take ages to get to the branch road to the ferry. As before the sign was there but no mention of distance. Eventually I saw some nice beaches ahead which lifted my spirits a bit mostly it was a case of battling on. A large causeway brought me to the ferry terminal and I arrived at18:20. The last ferry had left an hour before. There was a nice waiting room with toilets and outside a tap, which worked. I found a patch of grass behind a wall by the ramp and pitched my tent. The wind and rain continued as I cooked my tea. Day's mileage 76.84miles.