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Fort William, Carn Mor Dearg, Connel, Oban, Scotland.
(walking & driving)

 

Tue 07 Sep 2010

Mon 06 Sep 2010
Tue 07 Sep 2010
Wed 08 Sep 2010
Thu 09 Sep 2010

It was a very wild night. The ferocious wind battered the tent and I was constantly woken by the noise. One of the scariest things was being able to hear the gusts of wind approaching. They sounded like an express train coming and I had no idea if the tent was in for shaking, severe battering or annihilation. At first light I noticed that one of the guy lines had snapped. One of the best features of the Halliberg Soulo tent is that each pole has two guy lines on each side. In calm weather there is only the need to use one but I'd made sure all the guy lines were independently secured. My plan was to climb to Garn Mor Dearg and follow the sharp ridge round to Ben Nevis. The views from the tent door confirmed this would be madness as the winds on the ridge would be more severe than here.


Morning view from the tent,
almost straight down to the valley bottom


The rough shelf after the tent had been removed

I had two options: stay and wait hoping for the weather to improve (not likely) or move to a safer location. Yesterday my plan had be to camp by a spring I'd seen on Google Earth to the west and below the summit of Carn Beg Dearg. Even if I didn't camp there I still wanted to investigate it. I decided to move as the wind here was still severe. I sat in the tent with the door partly open looking down towards the CIC (Charle Inglis Clark memorial hut) when a gust of wind hit the tent and sucked out my blue mug. Fortunately I'd finished the coffee that was in it. I looked down to see it lying on a ledge just below. As I reached for my boots so I could recover it another fierce gust picked it up and propelled it horizontally in to space then vertically down o bounce it off the rocks below.

My favourite blue mug, which I'd carried on many Himalayan expeditions, was now nothing more than a blue spec in the valley below. In seconds it was a thousand feet down and vanished from sight. Maybe someone will find it in the future and give it a good home. I packed up camp and was on my way up the steep slope by 8:30. My objective was about the same altitude but the terrain of steep loose boulders made it too difficult to cross so the only way was up. At times the wind forced me down on to my hands and knees and occasionally the gusts were so strong I had to drop to the ground and lay there till it subsided. I came to a cairn on the ridge and immediately followed a faint path down the much gentler slop to the north.


A much better pitch


view from the tent

The weather changed every few seconds and suddenly the cloud blew away to reveal the ridge below me. Just as suddenly the view vanished. It was difficult making headway over the slippery stones. The light rain at the start was now getting heavier. After a while I left the ridge to descend across easier ground towards the spring I was looking for. It was so nice to leave the rocks behind. Ahead were some grassy slopes which I made a bee line for. Almost before I knew it a dip in the hillside revealed a small spring and a couple of flat grassy areas big enough for a tent. I'd reached the spring and was so glad it turned out as it did. The wind was still gusting very strong but as I pitched the tent I was able to get all the pegs in firm ground to their full depth. It was still early but I whiled away the hours reading and drinking coffee. After the loss of my favourite mug the coffee was drunk out of one of my cooking pans. During the evening the wind continued and torrential rain returned to batter the tent.