Return to Whittle Wanderer

Seatoller, Eskdale, Grey Friar, Coniston, Cumbria. (6 day backpack)

 

Sun 17 Jun 2007

Fri 15 Jun 2007
Sat 16 Jun 2007
Sun 17 Jun 2007
Mon 18 Jun 2007
Tue 19 Jun 2007
Wed 20 Jun 2007

 

More heavy rain during the night but it had mostly gone by morning. I was surprised by the total lack of wind and when I looked out of the tent the mist had partly cleared. High cloud remained and some mist had sunk into the valleys, leaving a partially clear band between. Where I was heading it was still cloudy so I delayed my start to see if the improving weather that was forecast would materialise; it didn't so I set off at 8am. I headed up SE to the high valley of Greta Gill. As I approached the final part of the climb the cloud thinned a bit and I was able to see where I'd been. Crossing the flat saddle between Great End and Broad Crag was probably the most windless I've ever known it.


Misty view from the Lambfoot Dub pitch.


Gloomy descent into Eskdale

I was just below the cloud base and could see my way down as I approached Esk Hause. A couple were coming up as I was descending but I didn't get chance say good morning as I had to cut off to the right to find the descent into Eskdale. There was no marker or path I could see so I followed my compass to the top of the gill. As I approached a narrow path appeared and I started the steep descent. The cloud had now descended and I could only see part of the route below. In places the path joins the river due to steep rocky sides. I imagine it would be tough going in flood, or even impassable. When I got below the cloud I could see the upper reaches of Eskdale below me; a wide flat expanse of bog. I kept to the river side and managed to keep my feet reasonably dry. This is an area where the River Esk is sadly in need of a footbridge. When the time came to cross I managed to step over some partial shallows but the last deep gulley had to be jumped.

I was a little short with my effort and paid the price with a wet right foot. I skirted the edge of Great Moss and regained a path of sorts. Below Throstlehow Crag I decided to follow the path to Lingcove Bridge for a safe river crossing but at the last minute I changed my mind and went for the direct route over the top to Lingcove Beck. Perhaps I wanted to keep to the more isolated route. I got to the beck and had to take my boots off to make the crossing by wading. I joined the path above the far bank and turned left to climb a while before turning right and straight up the fell towards Hardknott. I came to an electric fence and a faint path that I followed to Great Gill Head. I left the fence and crossed the flat area near the small tarn. I was approaching my planned pitch and had to find a water supply. Climbing above Bursting Gills I crossed the last water I would see for a while. My mobile phone couldn't find an O2 signal so I changed to an Orange SIM card and got a full signal. I found a nice spot overlooking Eskdale and pitched the tent. The cloud had cleared enough for me to see down the dale and out to sea.


A sunny Hardknott to Eskdale view


Late evening view after sunset.