The night temperature dropped to -7degC but thankfully no snow fell. Yesterday’s clear skies had gone. I didn’t have a very long day and didn’t want to reach my objective too early so delayed my start by reading for a while. Although there was plenty of snow around to melt for fresh water I decided to make my morning coffee with the lemonade I’d bought yesterday. It was a horrible disaster. It tasted awful and the milk powder curdled and separated from the rest. I packed up, pushed my bike thought he snow back to the road and set off towards Skelwith Bridge.

Packhorse bridge into Ambleside

Most of the way was downhill but quite tricky as I had to keep an eye out for ice. Down in the valley bottom, by the River Brathay, there was no ice but lots of vehicles. Just before Ambleside at Rothay Bridge I took the minor lane to the left to avoid the town centre. I could have stayed on the lane all the way to Rydal but saw a cycle lane sign over an old packhorse bridge. There was a lot of ice on the path so I wheeled my bike over only to see a sign saying:
Cyclists Prohibited
Offenders will be prosecuted.

Ambleside offended by cyclists

So it’s now official, in some areas of Ambleside they will prosecute cyclists they find offensive.
I took another path and reached the road just north of the town. Through Rydal and on to Grasmere the road is very busy and narrow in places. At Banneriggs I pulled into the verge to let some large vehicles through. I left the busy main road to take a detour through Grasmere village which had fewer cars but lots of people. Back on the A591 the road is now wider and less of a problem as vehicles can get past safely. After the aptly named Travellers Rest Inn I started on the long climb of Dunmail Raise.

The path were I didn't offend anyone

There’s not much to say about it except that it’s a case of engaging bottom gear and keep going. The road narrows on the descent and I’d planned to cycle along Thirlmere by the minor road on the west side of the reservoir. When I got to the turn off I soon changed my mind as all I could see was compacted snow from wall to wall.

Thirlmere Valve House

I stayed on the main road to pass Thirlmere on the east side. It wasn’t as bad as I’d expected and it gave me the opportunity to have a look at the reservoir outlet and valve building which is a short way off the road. My next call was in Keswick and I was way ahead of schedule. This evening’s plan is to meet Steve, a friend from my last trek, in the Crown Pub in Hesket Newmarket for a pint around 6pm. At this rate I’d be there over 2 hours early and it was too cold to sit outside for that long.

Concilio et Labore
is the city of Manchester's motto, which
roughly translated means "Wisdom and Effort"

I called in Booths to buy something to eat then phoned Jeff, another friend, who lives near Uldale, Fortunately he was in so I arranged to call for a brew. I called for a look in Glacier Sports shop before setting off along the A591 towards Bassenthwaite. The ride was OK but then I turned right at High Side to take the minor lane. It was succession of steep ups and steep downs and a good test of the gears. At Horsemoor Hills there was a very steep climb and I had to get off half way up due to ice across the road. I managed to finish the hill by pedal power. I reached Jeff’s place and stopped for a brew and chat. He’d been chopping wood so was able to keep warm outside. During the day both of my water bottles had frozen so Jeff poured some hot water from the kettle to thaw them.

Keswick

I didn’t have far to go and was still ahead of schedule as I re-commenced my journey. The next few miles to Caldbeck were mostly downhill. The next village was Hesket Newmarket. I had a decision to make. I was still way ahead of schedule and had originally planned to have a pint with Steve at 6pm ish then ride on to somewhere near Carrock Beck to camp.

The Old Crown, Hesket Newmarket

I wandered round the village and noticed an area of open land behind the Crown Pub and it looked like common land. I pitched my tent as far away from the road as I could and stated to cook my tea so I could heat it up after the pub. I’d left a message on Steve’s phone but he didn’t get it. At my tent I had an intermittent signal for my phone so sent him an email.

The Old Crown interior

I was in the Crown Pub at 6pm but Steve wasn’t. It is believed to be Britain’s first co-operatively owned pub. I had a pint of Doris’ 90th beer then a pint of Skiddaw. Assuming Steve didn’t get the message I left after an hour to return to my tent and eat a well earned meal. Later I saw a torch light outside and assumed it was one of the locals investigating my tent. Later I found out it was Steve trying to find me. He saw the tent and assumed I was asleep.

A pint of Skiddaw