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Rosthwaite, Honister, Great Gable, Sty Head, Seathwaite, Cumbria. (3 day backpack)
Mon 20 - Wed 22 Dec 2010

Mon 20 Dec 2010

Mon 20 Dec 2010

Tue 21 Dec 2010

Wed 22 Dec 2010

Originally I’d hoped to start my backpacking trip by driving to the start in my own car. Because of the cold and snowy weather I decided not to and take a risk and use public transport. It was -8degC when I left the house to catch the 05:40am bus to Preston. It was on time and after walking to the Railway Station to buy a return ticket to Penrith (£17.85) the 06:40am train to Glasgow was showing on the board as being on time. With 5mins to go it showed 5mins late then soon after 7 mins late. Then we were told it was just delayed. It arrived 10 mins late but after getting on there was another 10 min wait. The reason was a broken down train between Preston and Lancaster. We were on our way 20mins late. It was still dark so I didn’t get the chance to see the spectacular scenery a few miles before Tebay. It was 7:55 when I got off at Penrith and only had a few minutes to wait for the 08:02 bus to Keswick.


Booths cafe, Keswick


Rosthwaite

There was only one other person on it and nobody else got on by the time we reached Keswick. I asked the driver if it was the same bus that would go to Seatoller. It was, so I went on to Booths to brows the book section before returning to chat to the driver. There was bad news. A water hose had burst in the engine compartment and another bus was on its way from Carlisle. I was then over an hour late as it didn’t leave till about 10:35. Never mind, the sky was clear blue and the mountains covered with a dusting of snow, though nothing like as much as at home. I got off at Rosthwaite and started my walk in the clear and very cold weather.

The walled lane took me to the River Derwent where the stepping stones were covered in ice. The track continued to New Bridge where I crossed the river. The cobbled surface was very slippery as I crossed. I headed up the field to Tongue Gill where I crossed the main path which is called the Allerdale Ramble on the map. There were large areas of ice around so I fitted my ice studs to my boots and set off up the Gill. I was now in shadow and the temperature dropped considerably. I took it steady up through the old Rigghead quarries and stopped briefly to photograph the masses of icicles by the mine entrances.


Frozen stepping stones across the River Derwent


First view of Dale Head

I reached the top of the gill at the fence and stile and was greeted with glaring sunshine bouncing off the snow. I turned left and followed the fence upwards. I came to a small tarn which was frozen over and covered in snow. When the fence made a sharp left turn I was on a flattish area where there were several places I could pitch my tent.

I chose a high spot with a large snowdrift nearby which would be my water supply. It was very pleasant pitching the tent in the sunshine but the sun didn’t provide much in the way of warmth. The views were clear and incredible. After retreating to the tent to cook lunch I started by boiling some water for a brew of tea. As I poured the hot water into my plastic mug I noticed a pool of tea appearing under the mug.


Camp below Dale Head


View of Blencathra from my camp

There was a puncture hole in the base of the mug caused when I used it as a protective cover to the metal spike on my walking pole. The hole wasn’t large and by softening the plastic over the gas stove it was possible to mould the plastic with a spoon to seal the leak. I was so glad it worked as drinking tea from a metal pan isn’t as enjoyable. Later on I enjoyed the colourful spectacle of the setting sun casting pink, red then purple colours across the snowy mountains. Then the full moon rose to keep the scene illuminated all through the night.


The full moon rising above Clough Head