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East Marton, Lothersdale, Cowling, Stoodley Pike, Littleborough, Yorkshire (Part of Pennine Way). (4 day backpack)

Thu 13 Aug 2009

Wed 12 Aug 2009

Thu 13 Aug 2009

Fri 14 Aug 2009
Sat 15 Aug 2009

I looked out of the tent during the night to see if there was any sign of the Perseid meteor shower. I could see a few stars through the thin cloud cover but nothing else. The night was calm and so was the morning. The new tent was quick and easy to pack up but my main problem was the clouds of midges which were very annoying. I can't think of a similar intensity since I camped in Scotland. I was underway by 6:50am. I set off up towards Ickornshaw Moor on a path constructed of large stone slabs like those on Spittlers Edge near Winter Hill. I would see quite a few of these during the day and they were probably brought in the same way the Winter Hill ones were; by helicopter. I hadn't been going long before I noticed an area of peat cutting, probably for use in the stoves of the huts I passed yesterday.


Sunrise over Cowling


Ponden Reservoir

The moor was featureless with little to see in the distance. The map shows a strangely named area called 'The Sea'. Approaching it I saw the trig point by Little Wolf Stones to confirm I was on the correct path. At Old Bess Hill I came to a long straight wall descending all the way to the road. I turned left at the road and followed it to where the culvert parapet had recently been reconstructed and left it to follow a path to a farm track steeply down then fields down to the lower road by Ponden Reservoir. I took the path up a steep field then track to the interesting looking Ponden Hall.

Then it was down to the Reservoir again and then up a track to Buckley Farm. Continuing the track turned right to Upper Heights where the map shows a camp site. On reaching it I came to refurbished farm building and a sign saying Campsite Closed. Another of those fancy farm buildings owned by antisocial people with 'private' signs.


Walkers not welcome


Top Withens

Continuing up the moor I came to Top Withens which I visited the other week on a day walk. It is reputed to be the fictional location of Wuthering Heights in the Bronte novel. I didn't stop long as a couple of noisy walkers were coming up behind. I pressed on over Withins Heights Ends and started the descent to Walshaw Dean Middle Reservoir.

On the way I noticed a boulder by the path with a stone plaque cemented on the top. In inscription had been cut reading 'F Wilkinson A Rambler died Aug 31 1964 aged 35'. I followed the path by the reservoir bank then another path by the lower reservoir until I reached its embankment. It was now 11am so I decided to stop for lunch. I made a brew and cooked some noodles while trying to fend off the clouds of midges. As I sat there a few groups of walkers passed the other way. By 12 noon I was on my way again. The route now followed a decent vehicle track to the road. I soon left it to take the track to Gorple Lower Reservoir.


F Wilkinson A Rambler died Aug 31 1964 aged 35


Reservoir valve tower

I saw a man by the river with a ‘total station theodolite’ and GPS unit on a pole. I asked him what he was doing and he explained he was contouring the river bed to asses the fish situation at various river levels. Over the reservoir dam I headed up Reaps Coppy to a higher path following the contour. I met a couple coming the other way who wanted to know if the pub was open on the road below. They were referring to the Pack Horse which I hadn't passed so was unable to comment. It was still early but I was now looking for somewhere to camp as further on I would be too near to civilisation. Above Clough Head was a small stream of very dark water. At least it was running, just, so decided to pitch here.