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Skiddaw, Lonscale Fell, Wanthwaite Crags, Threlkeld Knotts, Cumbria (5 day backpack)

Mon 18 Sep 2006

Sat 16 Sep 2006
Sun 17 Sep 2006
Mon 18 Sep 2006
Tue 19 Sep 2006
Wed 20 Sep 2006

A very calm night with hardly a breath of wind. Unfortunately most of it was in cloud. There were some clear patches as I woke to make my brew and some stars were visible. With wet cloud hanging around it was a very soggy tent I packed away. I was on my way by 7:10am and set off straight down the fell, following the fence SW towards the Cumbria Way path.

As I descended I emerged from the cloud and had a nice view below. Some small patches of sun were shining on patches of low mist still clinging to the ground. I reached the main path and sat on the stile to check the map to decide which was the best way to get to the Threlkeld area. I decided on the most direct route according to the map and continued steeply down, following the fence. At the bottom a gate barred the way with a 'private' sign on it. The place for that was the top of the hill and I don't see how the landowner expects the unsuspecting walker to turn round and climb all the way up again.


Burnt Horse emerging from the cloud.

 


Fungi by Whit Beck

I climbed into the field and kept close to the wooded boundary, hoping I was out of sight. The map showed a short path and footbridge over the Glenderaterra Beck so I headed for it. Soon the stench of decomposition was in the area. By the fence was a large pit with several sheep in the bottom in an advanced stage of decomposition. No attempt had been made to backfill the hole. I'm sure this must be very bad practice in farming terms. The path shown on the map wasn't there and neither was the footbridge. I stepped across Whit Beck and climbed the steep bank up to the Lonscale buildings access road and on to another path which I had used before. It took me down to the river where there was a footbridge so I continued up a rough lane to Derwentfolds. There was nobody about so I can only assume the buildings are holiday cottages.

I followed the tarmac road via the buildings of Wescoe Farm where there were signs of life and milk bottles left at one building, though I didn't see anybody. The brief patches of sunshine I'd seen earlier had gone and it was now quite dull with clouds covering the tops. I reached the Threlkeld road and turned right to cross over the main A66 road to the lane on the other side. Just a few paces down it is an unmarked gate on the left that took me down onto the old line of the railway. It's now preserved as a path and I’m glad it is because it is a wonderful walk. The old rail bridge took me over the river Glenderamakin and on to the B5322 road.


The rail bridge over the river Glenderamakin


The old Penrith - Keswick rail track is now a footpath

   

I sat on a rock for a short rest before heading south along the road in light rain. Just before Hill Top farm I took the left lane which is the start of the Old Coach Road over to Ullswater. I followed it up until I came to a welcome seat just after the quarry fence on the right. This is where I left the track and headed straight up onto the fell side. Following the quarry fence round I came to the line of an old track that I'd been on before. I knew it took me steadily up through Wanthwaite Bank and on to Threlkeld Knotts.


A welcome rest by the Old Coach Road.


View of Keswick from the tent.

I could see someone up ahead with a dog and by the time he'd got to the top I was close enough to exchange a few words. We were going the same way for a while so we walked and chatted. The path narrowed and took a steep diagonal route up to Bennesty Knot where our ways parted. He continued up to Clough Head and I began to look for somewhere to pitch my tent. A flat spot was available at the top of the path but the nearest water was a long way off.

I decided to descend towards Jim's Fold sheepfold but picked a pitch nearby on the edge of the valley. It was quite exposed and windy but I wanted to give the tent a test as it's the first time I've used it. If things get bad the theory is that I'll retreat to the shelter of the sheepfold walls. Let’s hope it doesn't come to that.


Night view of Keswick from Wanthwaite Crags