Dockray, Watson's Dodd, Helvellyn (inc. summer solstice), Fairfield, Cumbria. Mon 19 Jun - Fri 23 Jun 2006

Mon 19 June 2006

Back-pack Cumbria. Vango TBS Minor 100 tent.
The first bus through Whittle to Chorley wasn't early enough so I had to walk to the Railway Station in time for the 06:43am to Penrith. The first snag of the day was trying to pay for my £23.50 saver return ticket. For the first time ever my debit card was rejected by the ticket office, so I had to dip into my reserves of cash to pay. Train status screens were still not working and the time shown on the screen on the platform was still an hour early. The train was on time and I changed at Preston for the 7:20 Glasgow train which left on time. I was looking forward to the journey past the Howgills and over Shap but rain and low cloud spoiled the views. I got off at Penrith Station which had the look of dilapidated Victorian about it, then waited for the 108 bus which left at 9:10.

Late afternoon from Great Dodd.

The fare was £3.50 to Aira Force, or Park Brow Foot as the ticket calls it. This seemed odd as I can't see that name on the map. The first part of the bus ride seemed to be all round the town and it was ages before we headed off into the countryside via Eamont Bridge and Stockbridge. It was cloudy, misty and raining with not much to see. I arrived at Aira Force and my first job was to put all my waterproofs on. The rain was quite light and drizzly but I still didn't fancy walking in it. I kept to the road and firstly climbed to Dockray and fortunately the rain stopped and I was able to dispense with claggy waterproofs. Turning left in the village I had the long steep drag up to Red Moss car park and then left to Dowthwaitehead. The road ends here but the path continued up the right side of Rush Gill. 'No Path' signs abound and no guidance is given on how we're supposed to find the permissive path. I got there eventually. An old green track runs easily up the deep valley side and emerges onto Dowthwaitehead Moss which is well named as the area is wet, boggy and not nice walking. I headed for Randerside Fold and the contour towards Lurge Crag. I was heading for a high plateau of ground so followed a stream up to just below the col. I decided to pitch below the summit as there was some shelter from the wind and none on the summit. A previous visit had revealed a nice clear spring ahead which I used to collect water then back to the tent to shelter from the drizzle and continuing mist.

The morning sun peeps over the mountains.

The sun continues to climb into the clouds.

Tue 20 June 2006

A calm night and the rain stopped. Just after 4am I stuck my head out of the tent to see a wonderful pink glow on the far horizon in the direction of Penrith. There was still some cloud about but the distant hills were clear. At 4:35am the sun rose and then vanished behind higher cloud about 10mins later. The suns appearance didn't make any difference to the temperature which hovered around 6deg C. I set off at 7:40 following the contour to the higher reaches of Browndale Beck The valley became narrower and steeper until I emerged on the main path near the summit of Watson's Dodd. I turned left and continued south past Stybarrow Dodd. By now the wind was getting up but the cloud was just high enough to clear the summits. The descent and crossing of the col of Sticks Pass was totally deserted, but I suppose that's to be expected. The views were rather misty so I pressed on over Raise and continued with the intention of covering ground as there was little to see. Climbing the ridge up Lowe Man the views began to go as I climbed into cloud. Helvellyn should have been visible but was lost in the mist. At the col I headed SE as best as I could judge, heading towards Brownrigg Well. I must have guessed right as the dip where the spring is appeared out of the mist. It was still early but this was my intended pitch for the day. It was a bit windy but not too bad and just as I got the tent up it began to rain hard. After half an hour there was a brief clear spell, so I collected some water and retreated to the tent when the rain and wind rose with a vengeance. I wasn't sure if conditions were going to stay the same or get worse. The sound of the rain battering on the side of the tent was deafening. I got my waterproofs, boots and stuff I'd need in a hurry to hand and lay back and waited. Surprisingly the rain lessened and things didn't sound too bad. I stayed put through the night.

Wed 21 June 2006

The longest day and summer solstice. The rain had stopped when I woke just after 4am. I could see the far fells but cloud was blowing by just above my head. My plan was to watch the sunrise from Helvellyn summit but the chance of a clear sky seemed remote. I put on all my waterproofs, stuffed my camera inside my jacket and set off for the summit about 10mins walk away. Instead taking the direct route I headed for the col on the approach to Whiteside. That would give me a view down to Ullswater and the far horizon if a higher view was not to be had. When I reached the edge I could see as far as Ullswater but no horizon. I continued to the trig point on the summit and waited for the sunrise time of 4:35am.

A wet Helvellyn summit on the longest day.

Sunrise on the longest day above Ullswater.

It came and went with no sign of the sun, though a shade of pink could be seen in the distance. I'd made the mistake of leaving my gloves in the tent and wished I hadn't. The wind and cold soon had me pushing my hands as far as I could into my pockets. I walked over to the four sided shelter and noticed a solo walker there who'd also come to see the sunrise. He'd just walked up from Glenridding and had set off at 2am. He’d expected to see head torches bobbing around the fells as others repeated his attempt. He was the only one. Perhaps the weather put everyone off? I took some shelter and noticed the view improving. Not a clear sun but very nice pink rays causing a distant sunburst. So it was worthwhile after all. I said my goodbyes and headed off back to the trig point then back to the tent for a much need brew of tea and some breakfast.

The weather forecast was for the wind to increase later in the day. My tent was pitched in the open and I didn't know what windspeeds would come. The radio said 60mph for Cumbria and at my altitude I don't know what that would be so I decided to relocate. I took my time as I wasn't going far. I packed up and set off at 9:15am heading SE towards the main track off Helvellyn.

Striding Edge and two walkers.

A sheltered pitch but no prize for
tidy tent of the month award!

The going was then very easy and I followed it over Nethermost Pike to Dollywaggon Pike. Here was a sheltered spot behind some rocks that I'd used before. It's the only shelter I know of for miles and I wanted to stay high in case of a chance of seeing a nice sunset. So here I camped. Later in the afternoon I went for a wander and recorded a windspeed of 27knots. It was still relatively clear with no sign of the heavy rain that had been forecast.

Thu 22 June 2006

Another wet and windy night but not as bad as expected. With only a half day's walk ahead I didn't set off till 8:35am. Well, it's the 22 June and I should be walking in nice warm summer sunshine. The fact is I'm virtually kitted out in full winter gear including mitts. Where's all this global warming I keep hearing about? It's still windy but nothing like the weathermen's predictions. I reckon some gusts were up to 30knots but I've been in a lot worse. The rain continued but it wasn't heavy, but the main problem was walking in thick cloud. Not because I couldn't find the way, I was on a path resembling the M6, but because with no view it can get monotonous. The start of the descent of Dollywaggon Pike was helped considerably by the wonderful work done by the Pathfairies, that magnificent group of men (I've never seen any women doing it) who build the paths from huge blocks of stone that have mostly been flown in by helicopter. Near the bottom of the descent the choppy surface of Grisedale Tarn appeared out of the mist. I crossed the stepping stones and up the path, which was now a river, up to Grisedale Hause. A left turn and I was on the steep, steady trudge up to Fairfield. The time didn't seem to register as I climbed up through the mist. The summit was reached, which I had entirely to myself, and then following a compass bearing I started the descent towards Great Rigg. Just over it's summit I came to the fork in the path that indicates the branch directly down to Grasmere.

Evening view up Easedale.

Fri 23 June 2006

A calm night and an early start. The first bus from Grasmere is the 7:25am. I left my pitch at 6:10am and was down in Grasmere Village before 7. The bus was on time and I had plenty of time to kill before my train home. The bonus surprise was that my Chorley – Penrith return ticket was valid all the way from Windermere, so I had nothing to pay. I’d expected having to buy a ticket as far as Oxenholme, but because Windermere – Chorley is cheaper than Penrith – Chorley I was OK.