Whittle Wanderers

Buttermere, Fleetwith Pike, Hay Stacks, Cumbria. Wed 1 Sep 2004
We drove in wonderful early morning sunshine to Buttermere but no sooner had we arrived the high clouds started to roll in. At 8:30am we left the small lay-bye car park above St James' Church and walked along the road to Gatesgarth Farm. As we walked the impressive buttress of Fleetwith Edge got bigger and bigger as we approached. I mention this because that's where we're going. The start can be off putting for some, as a white memorial cross is the first thing that is seen by the trail. It commemorates Fanny Mercer who was 'accidentally killed' here in 1887, but no details are given.
	The Fanny Mercer memorial.
The trail continues as an easy to follow route up Fleetwith Pike giving wonderful views of Buttermere, then Crummock as we gain height. Just up in front were a couple of walkers who'd set off from Gatesgarth about the time as we did. We met them further up and we had a brief chat. They were doing the same route as us, continuing on over Haystacks and then down. But they were in Cumbria for a few days camping.
Eric climbs Fleetwith Edge with Buttermere and Crummock Water in the distance.
The summit was our first coffee stop. To the SE is a nice path down to the Dubs Hut, but it's not shown on any of the maps. The hut interior is sparse but pleasant and the roof seems to be in order. Unfortunately one of the NW facing windows was hanging loose on its hinges. I reported the defect when I got home. The Quarry is back in business again on this side of the fell. The old tram ropeway had been crossed with a new road where a huge wagon was taking loads of slate waste back to Honister.
Dubs Hut.	The old Tram Ropeway with Hay Stacks in the background.
Across the river we headed up and past Blackbeck Tarn. The path then follows a nice balcony, which gives wonderful views down the Buttermere valley. A little higher we came to Innominate Tarn, the final resting place of the ashes of A. Wainwright. The name is well known in all walking circles as the author of the definitive set of Lakeland guidebooks. I've always found them the best guide to tracks, how to find them and what condition they're in. The Ordnance Survey is a long way behind in the validity of routes shown on their maps. Some that are shown just don't exist. The views were still there as we reached the summit of Hay Stacks so we decided to stop for lunch. Some cloud was hanging over Pillar but didn't seem to be moving our way. The buzz of saws could be heard from Ennerdale as another swath of trees was being felled.
Views of Buttermere and Crummock Water in the distance as we descend to Scarth Gap.
More walkers started to appear on the climb as we made our way down to Scarth Gap. Some looked rather overweight and unfit and wanted to know it there was a way 'round' Hay Stacks. "Not really, it's over the top or turn back" we said. The walk along the SW shore path of Buttermere is easy and enjoyable and many people were enjoying picnics on the lakeshore. Back at the car we packed up and set off for a shopping expedition to Keswick. Eric wanted a new rucksack.